London: A City to Suit Your Every Mood
Think you know London? Use our surprising guide to style the perfect city getaway!
 by Julie O'Hara

It is a few minutes before 11:30am and you are standing among the throngs of visitors who have flooded every available inch of pavement in front of Buckingham Palace. Suddenly, you are nudged forward as the crowd around you stands at attention, straining on tiptoes and holding digital video recorders overhead. You hear exclamations in various languages and feel the collective sense of awe as Her Majesty’s Guard changes posts precisely on schedule. After 45 minutes spent jockeying for a better view, the spectacle is finished and the crowds disperse, going on their way to snap pictures of Parliament or take a tour of Westminster Abbey.

If this scene sums up your dream trip to London, stop reading right now—you can easily find a travel agent to arrange it. If, on the other hand, you desire a vacation that includes more than the typical sight-seeing agenda, there is another way to approach this cosmopolitan city: as a collection of distinct neighborhoods, each with its own unique personality. Whether you crave a designer shopping fix, a stroll through historic streets, or an afternoon of gallery hopping, our guide will introduce you to a corner of London to suit your every mood!

The South Bank: Culture and Thrills at the River’s Edge

On the south bank of the Thames, culture mavens will find enough options to fill several days with art, theater and views from stomach-churning heights. Start out on the east end of the river walk with a tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. This interactive museum was modeled after the original, which was destroyed in 1644. In the summer months, plays are staged as they would have been in Shakespeare’s time.

If you don’t fancy shuffling along behind groups of school children at the National Gallery and British Museum, head next door to the Tate Modern, one of the most impressive collections of 20th century art in the world. It is not just the Rothko’s, Warhol’s and Dali’s inside the Tate Modern that make the museum a must-see, but the structure itself—a former power plant converted into five stories of gallery space and a vast entry hall used to display monumental works of sculpture. The restaurant at the top is ideal for a light lunch coupled with views that are just as inspiring as the art hanging in the rooms below. Exit by the river-facing side of the Tate and walk out onto the Millennium Bridge, a pedestrian-only suspension bridge that affords stunning photo-ops of St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Thames.

Continuing west along the Queen’s Walk will lead you past the National Theatre, a collection of three intimate performance spaces where innovative productions are staged, from the Greek tragedies of Aeschylus to new works by British playwrights. Stop by the box office and buy tickets for one of the shows running in repertory that night. As you head toward Westminster Bridge, the London Aquarium and the Dali Universe, a permanent collection of more than 500 works by the surrealist, offer fascinating ways to spend your afternoon. Whichever you choose, save time for a ride on the London Eye. Originally constructed for London’s millennium celebration, the enclosed cabins of the world’s tallest observation wheel have become the most popular way to see the city from above.

Knightsbridge: Desperately Seeking Style

If breakfast at Tiffany’s sounds like the perfect start to your day, arrive in Sloane Square in time for coffee and a croissant as you window shop at the iconic jewelers. Visit the collections of designers like Dior and Prada as you make your way up Sloane Street to Harvey Nichols, the style destination for London’s fashionistas. Though I have always thought of Harrods as a slightly overdone “shopper’s Disneyworld,” the impressive Egyptian room and eye-popping food halls are well worth a visit and will easily entertain anyone who may not be infected with the shopping bug.

For lunch, you could choose one of the many cafes along Knightsbridge Road or pick up sandwiches at London’s favorite takeaway spot, Pret A Manger. For an al fresco lunch, venture into Hyde Park, the vast green space running behind the length of the shopping street. Walk west along the slim Serpentine Lake towards the memorial fountain built for Princess Diana and bask in the serenity found in the midst of the urban landscape.

With the Victoria and Albert Museum a short walk from the park, your day of style is far from over. In keeping with the Victorian preoccupation with collecting and cataloguing everyday objects, this cavernous design museum showcases fashion, ceramics, furniture and all manner of objets d’art.

Notting Hill: Vintage Finds and Posh Pubs

You won’t find Julia Roberts or even Hugh Grant in Notting Hill (Grant makes his home in Chelsea), but you will see the manicured streets and charming townhouses, some in an array of pastel colors, depicted in the popular film. During the week, Notting Hill is a low-key refuge from the upbeat tempo of central London. Adopt a leisurely pace as you stroll the tree-lined streets and find your way to one of the inviting neighborhood watering holes. These chic hangouts maintain the look of traditional English pubs, but offer upscale bar menus and a wide array of beverages to their posh clientele. Open and airy, the Champion on Notting Hill Gate Road boasts several sidewalk tables, a large collection of European beers, wines by the glass, and light bar food that swaps fish and chips for calamari.

On Saturdays, the quiet streets of Notting Hill spring to life—especially the famous Portobello Road where the antique market is held each week. If wandering past stall after stall of vintage clothing, jewelry and bric-a-brac is your cup of tea, arrive early and follow the groups of shoppers to Portobello Road. As you descend the gently sloping hill, the antique market turns into a buzzing farmers market. By the time you have made your way back to the top, you will have undoubtedly developed an appetite, so step into the funky Prince Albert for a pint of lager and their lovely seafood platter. With luck, you can score a table in their sunny back garden. For more exotic fare, Manzara is an unassuming Turkish restaurant and takeaway with fresh, chewy flatbreads and marinated kebabs cooked atop hot coals while you wait. Finish off your day in Notting Hill with a visit to the Gate, an art house cinema showing the best independent and foreign films.

The East End: Cool Shops and Exotic Eats

When I spent a year doing study abroad at Queen Mary and Westfield College in East London seven years ago, this gritty side of the city was just starting to attract artists and trendsetters looking for the next hot neighborhood. Today, the East End is known to Londoners for the everything-goes market at Spitalfields, the currently expanding Whitechapel art gallery, plenty of cool nightspots and, my favorite, the dozens of Indian restaurants serving curry feasts highly compatible with a student budget.

A gathering place for merchants since 1638, Spitalfields hosts vendors every day of the week in a cavernous market hall. For the best selection, visit on a Sunday when you can browse an eclectic mix of vendors selling handcrafted jewelry, natural bath products, original artwork and mouth-watering goodies. Keep an eye out for the struggling fashion designers hawking one-of-a-kind pieces in the most cutting edge shapes and textures—you may find the next Stella McCartney.

As East London has become a more fashionable address in recent years, an array of sleek shops and eateries have sprung up around the old market. A stop at Montezuma, an artisan chocolate maker, is a must. Grab a coffee and English pasties (similar to empanadas), fish and chips or a gyro from the market stalls or opt for a bite at one of the trendy new restaurants like Giraffe, located behind the market.

After the chaotic atmosphere of Spitalfields, the serene, minimalist ambience of the Whitechapel Art Gallery is a welcome respite. Open during its expansion, the gallery hosts exhibitions of contemporary British artists working in both traditional and experimental mediums. If your visit to the East End coincides with dinnertime, eat in one of the curry houses on Brick Lane. Preem has a large menu, a bright, cozy dining room and a good selection of Indian beer. After dinner, wander down Brick Lane to the Vibe bar at the Truman Brewery where the night’s festivities will be just getting started.

Greenwich: Historic Maritime Charm

To visit Greenwich, hop aboard the ultra-modern Docklands Light Railway, which connects with several major Tube stations (the Tube is London’s underground transit system). Upon arrival you will discover a seaport village straight out of The Pirates of Penzance where the past glories of maritime London are in focus. Take a walk up the charming main street where you can browse through quirky shops and grab coffee and scones at a bakery. Take your snack and admire the Cutty Sark, the famous clipper ship dry docked at Greenwich. Next, head to the Royal Observatory, perched on a hilltop in the center of Greenwich Park (that scone was for energy!). The observatory is home to the prime meridian, giving you the incredible opportunity to stand with one foot in the eastern hemisphere and one in the western hemisphere. For boating enthusiasts, a visit to the nearby National Maritime Museum should be added to the agenda. End your day with a stroll through the park then back into town where you can duck into a pub for a pint and a hearty meal before heading back to your hotel.

Covent Garden and the Theater District: Essential London

A day in central London’s most popular locale need not be spent among the madding crowds. If going to the theater is in your plans, a good way to get tickets is often to visit a show’s box office in the morning when they open. There are rarely lines (most tourists buy from ticket agents who have a limited selection of shows), and you can choose from a variety of price points. If you have your heart set on a particular show, I recommend buying tickets in advance to avoid disappointment.

With the night’s entertainment arranged, you are free to explore the winding streets where storefronts are dominated by fashionable boutiques and European-style cafes. Take a cue from the locals and shop in Neal’s Yard, a charming square known for shoe stores, fashion and the finest artisan cheese shop in the city, Neal’s Yard Dairy. For hard to find natural face and body treatments, Neal’s Yard Remedies is a beauty junkie’s dream.

For a respite from shopping (as if you needed one), take a short walk toward the river and visit the Courtauld Gallery, a small museum in historic Somerset House. This often overlooked gem is home to a dazzling, well-edited collection of Impressionist works, including a whole room of sculptures by Degas and paintings by Manet, Renoir and Picasso.

Options abound for a pre-theater meal, but if you are feeling adventurous, wander just west of Charing Cross Road and try Chinatown. As you make your way to the theater, be sure to scope out the perfect quiet restaurant for dessert and a post-theater cocktail.